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When assembling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred names. But, nestled high among these food giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying area of north London.

An Unexpected Honour

The compact Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The accolade has made the proprietors completely astonished.

“I am completely astonished,” remarks the owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ dedication that resulted in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a respected 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its earlier feel. It seats just over 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a compact and cozy spot,” says the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the food, and this establishment more than delivers. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a succulent texture.

The meat is then added into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is placed on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley go inside before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is usually consumed with a squeeze of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful punch of taste, with soft hints of sumac, bold onions and rich, paprika-red oil tying it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and cooked, nutty browned butter. The leading food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is coated in less syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Stars

Notably, this unassuming restaurant has outplaced several renowned three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself near the peak of the list, just after other notable dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave the restaurant satisfied for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can run into many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Warmth

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and finest food but I do not believe in that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is warmth, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The sentiment is supported by the list’s editor, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overthinking, and to show what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their very best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t work at elite restaurants. “I am very happy of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She was raising children and a house to care for as well. Each of these duties made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s success is likely to have meaning outside its own walls. “In my opinion many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this culinary achievement.